Makan Tengah is more than just a meal; it’s a cultural metaphor for sharing and community that resonates deeply with Indonesians—and many across Asia. In Indonesia, one of the first questions you might hear upon meeting someone is, “Sudah makan belum?” or “Have you eaten?” It’s a small gesture, but one that reflects a strong cultural emphasis on hospitality and togetherness. The phrase makan tengah itself refers to a communal dining style where all dishes are placed in the center of the table, inviting everyone to dig in together. This style of eating isn’t just about food; it’s a way of fostering connection, sharing stories, and nurturing bonds.
In Indonesia, communal dining is more than just a tradition; it’s a heritage passed down through generations, intended to unify communities and bring people closer. The roots of communal eating in Indonesia are influenced by a variety of cultures that have interwoven with local customs over centuries. Whether inspired by the Chinese practice of sharing plates, the Yemeni communal meals, or even the colonial-era rijsttafel that catered to the Dutch elite in old Batavia (now Jakarta), each culture left a mark on the way Indonesians dine together.
Across Indonesia, various regions have their own unique take on makan tengah, each with its own flavors, customs, and settings. Here’s a look at some of the traditional communal meals that reflect the diversity and richness of Indonesian cuisine:
Communal Meals Tradition in Indonesia
Liwet (Java)
Liwet, a tradition rooted in Javanese culture, is a meal where rice is the centerpiece, often served alongside chicken, tofu, tempeh, and a variety of vegetables. All the dishes are laid out on banana leaves, and everyone gathers around to eat with their hands—a true celebration of simplicity and authenticity. Originally from Solo and Yogyakarta, this communal meal is often enjoyed during family gatherings and special occasions.
Tumpengan (Java and Sunda)
Tumpengan is recognized by its signature cone-shaped yellow rice, symbolizing prosperity and gratitude. Surrounding the rice are an array of side dishes like fried chicken, perkedel (potato patties), and vegetables. This tradition, popular in Javanese and Sundanese culture, is often part of ceremonial events, symbolizing a shared celebration and a prayer for blessings. The cone shape of the rice is said to represent a mountain, connecting the meal to ancestral beliefs.
Megibung (Bali)
In Bali, megibung is a communal dining tradition rooted in the island’s Hindu culture, where groups of people share a single large serving tray filled with rice, meats, vegetables, and sambal. Originating from the Karangasem region, megibung is usually reserved for special events, rituals, or ceremonies, where it serves as a bonding activity that transcends social hierarchies and unites people.
Binarundak (Minahasa)
From North Sulawesi, binarundak is a lesser-known but cherished tradition among the Minahasa people. This meal consists of rice cooked in bamboo, with the smoky aroma giving it a unique flavor, and is often paired with fish and a variety of spicy sambals. Binarundak is usually prepared during harvest festivals, emphasizing community spirit and gratitude for the earth’s bounty.
