30 years certainly isn’t a short time, and in that time span, chef Erna Nuryanti Lingga has accomplished many things in the pastry world. From managing pastry activities at one of the world’s most luxurious resorts located in Bali, Bulgari Resort Bali, to winning several prestigious awards, chef Erna went through it all with passion and dedication. Being a pastry chef is no longer a choice but a life calling that comes naturally to her.
Born in Bandung, West Java, chef Erna moved to Bali when she was five years old and has fallen in love with the paradise island ever since. Her childhood was already dominated by memories in the kitchen, where she would often help her mother to bake cookies and pastries for special occasions. The kitchen became her playground, and she thanks her mother for it. Though her mother wasn’t a chef, she was an important figure that shaped chef Erna’s motivation for baking and, quite truly, her whole career in the culinary world. “Although my mom wasn’t a chef, she cooked very well. Her opor is something I truly miss. She always cooked great Sundanese dishes for the family to eat together.”
When she was a teenager, her knack for baking cakes and pastries became apparent to her surroundings. She would sell her sweets creations to relatives, which would spread even further to neighbors and friends. At that point, she was determined to go to a hospitality school to hone her talent further–there were no more questions about that decision. She became even more confident with the choice during hospitality school, saying, “I realized that my passion is not in the hot kitchen but in pastry.”
After completing a study of BPLP (Balai Pendidikan dan Latihan Pariwisata) at the Grand Hyatt as commissioner, Erna worked her way up to pastry sous chef. She spent almost fifteen years there before she was suddenly offered a job as assistant pastry chef at Bulgari Resort Bali – an opportunity at a luxury brand that was impossible to pass up. “I joined the team since it was just the opening team. At that time, we were working with the Malaysian chef, Patrick Chew Peck Tee. Until finally, I was asked to replace the position of the pastry chef.”
Bulgari allowed chef Erna to spread her wings even wider and to express her creativity even grander. Behind the simplicity and elegance of the Bulgari Resort Bali’s pastry creations, there was no place to hide behind decorations or displays. It was always the taste that took center stage. “Taste is always more important than looks, although we can’t take looks for granted either. The first question to ask is, are these creations delicious? And isn’t this creation beautiful?” chef Erna explained, noting that there is always a long process of trial and error behind every unique creation. For her, Bulgari has its own signature, especially regarding the ingredients being used. “Here, we work with the best premium products. It’s an opportunity that might rarely be found in other hotels.”
Among chef Erna’s most memorable moments at Bulgari Resort Bali was the launch of Bulgari Il Cioccolato Bali. When the exhausting pandemic finally subsided in mid-2022, chef Erna had the opportunity to learn to make Il Cioccolato with the famous Kanako Saito, Bulgari Il Cioccolato Matire Chocolatier, after having previously been appointed by Valrhona as one of the pastry teams invited to conduct training in Tokyo in 2016. “This training course invited me to explore the world of chocolate, which is very interesting. It’s an exciting world that requires patience and technique that must be constantly learned and re-learned.”
The process wasn’t a simple one. The Bulgari central team carried out many approval processes, which played to an even greater satisfaction when the Il Cioccolato was finally launched and could be savored by Bulgari Resort Bali’s guests and epicureans.
Having worked in the kitchen for a long time wasn’t without its challenges. For her, there is an art in itself–that perhaps comes with experience–like, how to balance the majority of masculine energy in the kitchen as a woman. As a mother of four, she also has to pay immense attention to her family’s life. She admits the challenges from the two sides will come and go from time to time, yet they didn’t shake chef Erna’s confidence one bit. She believes it’s important for female chefs like her not to let weakness get in the way, and the key is to be diligent and astute in balancing family and professional affairs. “It takes a lot of practice. You must always be willing to learn from anyone, be it someone senior or even younger.”
Even though she has been in the industry for three decades, chef Erna remains driven to learn more, striving for better, higher-quality work. In the near future, she and the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts team will soon launch another collection of high-standard bespoke chocolate, cakes, Easter collections, and other pastries that will let Bulgari Resort Bali Bali’s guests indulge in quality that can be expected from other Bulgari locations around the world, such as Paris, London, Dubai, and the new Tokyo & Paris (opening soon in 2023).
Not only is chef Erna passionate about her craft, but she is also passionate about advocating for Indonesia’s community of pastry chefs to advance and reach the world stage. She’s currently active in the Indonesia Pastry Alliance (IPA), an association that brings together pastry and bakery practitioners throughout Indonesia. In her book, the journey of learning has no end. “The key is never to feel enough and satisfied with the abilities and skills you currently have. Always develop and upgrade your level with spectacular works.”
