Every time the weekend rolls around, so does the contentious discussion in my friend group about where to go for a hangout. A mall for window shopping after brunch seemed like a good plan for everyone, but we are always on the lookout for a new escape to get away from the city’s everyday hustle and bustle. Luckily, there’s just been a recent addition to Gandaria City Mall that may solve our quest.
Opened by KAGI Hospitality, Early March has become the newest member of the group following its sisters’ (Ask For Patty & Patty and Sons) successes. Unlike the previous two, Early March didn’t go with the ‘Patty’ stamp in its name. Instead, the name comes as a commemoration of the culinary group’s founding, when they first opened an online burger joint out of a garage in early March, 2020.
Upon entering, the pub-like dark yet elegant interiors instantly transported me to another world, as if I was far from the bright and hubbub of Jakarta malls. The circular bulbs hang a few feet apart from each other, emanating warmth to the colorful prints on the walls and leather sofas. Yet when peeking into the outdoor area, a fresh view emerged, now a bright, airy patio with a refreshing scene of the back garden.
Opened only a month after the Cilandak Townsquare (Citos) branch, Early March in Gandaria City hails with a slightly different concept. Here, they crossed the words “cafe and bakery” from the name, emphasizing a shift from the Citos outlet’s casual cafe vibe to a more proper sit-down restaurant. With the same menu, this branch differs with a bigger bar, offering a more extensive cocktail selection. The aim is to eventually foster a ‘cocktail culture’ – similar to the big Western cities the venue is trying to transport us to. We are told that “Though cocktails are typically consumed at night, we want to show that you can actually enjoy them any time of day. And there aren’t many options in the Gandaria area for it yet [to enjoy cocktails].”
Obviously, we complied with the idea of day drinking, ordering the bartender’s favorite: a bright and punchy Whisky Sour made extra special with Maker’s Mark Bourbon – a popular choice by many bartenders. My friend opted for the signature Early March Negroni, a softer and fruitier take on the classic, made with Campari and Aperol. Two drinks that later continued to charmingly intercept our conversation for the rest of the morning.
Flipping through the menu, I found a fairly extensive variety of dishes, predominantly American flavors with a few Asian options. If Ask for Patty (a fast-food-style burger joint) and Patty and Sons (modern gourmet steakhouse) both sit at the opposite ends of American eateries types, Early March appears to sit somewhere in the middle; positioning itself as a restaurant for everyone and anytime, be it a quick lunch, intimate dinner, or just like what we did, a cozy brunch.
We started with an appetizer of whipped ricotta with herbs and sea salt folded through, topped with a drizzle of truffle honey. The dish is light yet decadent, served with chunks of wood-grilled sourdough to scoop the luscious cheese and sticky honey.
Looking at the meatier part of the menu, it’s apparent that the folks at Patty universe know their meat. They pride themselves on producing pastrami from scratch; a dedication and, frankly, a hassle that not everyone is willing to go through, if it weren’t for the pure passion of the craft.
The signature Ox Tongue Pastrami Reuben, for instance, is cooked for more than 12 hours. The ox tongue is soft, slathered with creamy Russian dressing and swiss cheese that just melted in my mouth, while the generous heap of sauerkraut and pickles cut the richness right through. Not only pastrami, their central kitchen also churns out all of the mouthwatering ingredients, from curing and wet-aging meat to baking sweets and pastries, which are then distributed to all their branches fresh every day.
The steak here also comes with a friendlier price tag, at least compared to its sibling restaurant, Patty & Sons. Yet the quality is promised to be the same as what ‘Patty’ brands are always known for. The 400g Wet-Aged Black Angus Ribeye we ordered was the proof, it arrived perfectly tender in a hissing bath of butter alongside potatoes and lightly spiced charred vegetables.
After cleaning most of the plates, we slouched on our sofa for a moment. Satiated, and slightly buzzed from the nearly empty glasses of cocktails in our hands. I then got up to the storefront to find tempting doughnuts, viennoiserie, and cakes looming behind the counter. That’s when the carrot cake caught my eye, and oh boy, it didn’t disappoint. The cake was moist, with salient spice and walnuts poking throughout. And, just as the sweetness is balanced by the slightly sour cream cheese frosting, this homemade carrot cake finally brought our brunch to a delightfully sweet close.
Early March, Gandaria City
Gandaria City, Lantai Ground, Mainstreet Dining,
Jl. Sultan Iskandar Muda, Gandaria, Jakarta Selatan