Inspiration comes in many ways and forms. For the creators of Santanera, a group of friends from different places, all ambitious and talented in their own right, it all started with a dream. And what happens when you have nomadic dreamers coming together? They turn an idea into reality. For Colombian chef Andrés Becerra together with a group of friends, it was a 160-seater, three-storey, Latin American meets Mediterranean and Southeast Asian inspired restaurant, named after the ‘saint of gypsies — Santanera.
“The restaurant is inspired in this style, the concept of the restaurant is like a ‘gypsy style’ because everyone that is part of this restaurant is a gypsy in their own way, so we’re all like travellers, and we are all people from different parts of the world that somehow managed to come together and put this restaurant together,” shares Chef Andres, describing the dining experience at the much loved Canggu dining spot, now on its fourth year.
Painted on the walls are goddess murals, with Persian-inspired lights that set the atmosphere, together with its black panelled floor-to-ceiling windows, a massive open kitchen…it’s a place that exudes warmth, comfort, a place that feels familiarly unfamiliar.
Same goes with the food they have on the menu, where complex yet familiar dishes are put together to share and enjoy, usually eaten with hands. Crudities, tartelette, skewers, empanadas, and ceviches served with plantain crackers (or the Colombian version, patacones) that are familiar, yet prepared with modern technique and layered with complex textures and flavours. These mouth-watering dishes are found on the menu, best indulged by picking up rather than cutting with a fork and knife.
“In the beginning, it was difficult for some people to resonate with this concept. Some people wanted their own dishes. We had to make a few changes, but the core of the menu itself is to be shared.”
Chef Andres recommends starting with the mahi-mahi tarama aperitivo, “something nice, textural, crunchy, fresh to get you started,” before jumping into the diverse selection of snacks.
“I think the snacks for us are one of the biggest sections of the menu that showcase what we believe should be, like the food should be. Because you have snacks, you have one or two bites and then you can have so many textures, flavours, so many different layers that come together and make something really special.”
With the Yellowfin Tuna & Salmon Roe Tartelette, expect something “salty, sour, crunchy, a little bit of umami.” Find the Colombian influence in the Chicken Skewer glazed with caramelized coconut titote served with charapita (Peruvian chili.)
To those who are unfamiliar with the culinary crossover between Spanish and Latin American influence in Colombian flavours and produce, Santanera may well be a chance to discover and travel through that cuisine. For Chef Andres, this style and philosophy has developed through his roots, experience, and travels.
With his family in the restaurant business, Chef Andres is not new to the orchestrated chaos that happens in the kitchen. One of the main restaurants that their family owns is a traditional Colombian grill, Casa Brava. Seeing the effort and hard work of everyone in the restaurant inspired him to be in the same profession.
“Most of my childhood was spent at the restaurant, running around, playing with the waiters, the chefs, and running around the kitchen. That’s where my passion for the hospitality industry was born. From the kitchen side, to the front of house, to everyone that comes into the equation together to make a fantastic restaurant experience.”
He pursued his culinary studies at William Angliss Institute in Melbourne, and soon after, worked in the renowned Spanish restaurant MoVida where he spent 10 years, starting off as kitchen staff before becoming Head Chef.
He finds inspiration and influence in his experience in Melbourne, having spent 17 years in the vibrant city, which he defines as a “a very multicultural city…and I think in terms of food scenes around the world, I think Melbourne and Sydney have really good restaurants, really good, inspiring chefs that are pushing the boundaries.”
“Having the opportunity to live there and to work there really shaped my career and myself as a chef,” he adds.
He’s also spent some time at Relæ in Copenhagen, as well as El Casal in Barcelona, which also inspired him in exploring different flavours and techniques while learning the best practices from such renowned establishments.
A successful dish for Chef Andres is something complex and layered, and also, remembered, creating memories in the experience of trying different dishes.
“At the end of the day when I leave a restaurant or I wake up the next day and I’m still thinking about what I had, it gets to you and creates memories.”
Some of memorable flavors through his travels and experiences are the sambal roa he’s tried in Ubud, smoked bonito he’s had in Jakarta, tarama in Greece, and woodfired potato bread in Copenhagen, just to name a few.
“I think having the chance to have that impact and create memories through food is one of the most significant things. It is, in my opinion, what makes a good dish.”
With his roots and experience, he has built Santanera together with his friends, a project they thought was ambitious, especially since they opened during the pandemic. Despite the challenges of supply and produce, Chef Andres, his partners, and the team maintain Santanera’s consistency in quality and flavour. Chef Andres aims to maintain the same consistent level of experience in food, flavors, and service that they are already known for, and hopefully, expand their restaurant business into other parts of Indonesia.
“I think Santanera is going to a stage that is very established and we’ve been lucky enough to have people that have worked with us from day one, so they already know what we stand for. We are quite established.”
“We’re definitely looking into doing something next year or the year after. We see a lot of potential in Indonesia so we’re trying to find the right fit for us,” he shares.
Santanera
Jl. Tanah Barak No.55-57, Canggu
