When thinking about a dessert shop in South Jakarta, the words “jajanan pasar” do not necessarily cross the mind. Most of the time, the visuals of buttery croissants, cakes, or other trendy concoctions are conjured up instead– well, at least for me.
Indonesian traditional sweets, commonly referred to as ‘jajanan pasar,’ have long played a role in the daily lives of Jakartans. Although their presence rarely makes people’s heads turn, they are familiar and dependable: their small size is convenient enough to sustain an empty stomach early in the day or as the staple support on most domestic occasions. Nowadays, though, they are rarely seen as an option for young urbanites (surely not during hangouts at hip cafes), and you don’t really see them in modern settings, let alone take center stage of the menu. But then, I came across this wondrous place.
Started as an online business, they initially produced and sold jajanan pasar from a house in Cipete. Seven months ago, they decided to open a small shop in Wijaya so people could taste and experience the comfort of traditional bites in a fresher, untypical way. At first, I found it hard to believe that there was a cafe nestled behind the gray wall of what looked more like a living space. Frankly, the only thing that convinced me I wasn’t in the wrong place was the smiley face sticker stamped on the gate and an arrow sign pointing to a small door in the corner that led to a second floor.
Upon entering, the sight I was greeted with was enough to tell me that this was no ordinary local snack shop. Rather than the usual, straightforward shops with racks of snacks left and right, Jajan Si Manis reminded me more of a quaint, posh French bistro with floral tablecloths that, at first glance, weirdly evoked a memory of my grandma’s house.
The indoor area is not too wide, only able to seat up to ten to twelve people at once. A white wall divides the room into two, and behind it hides a coffee station that prepares all the drinks. There’s also a tiny outdoor corner with two metal tables under a canopy facing the green lush of the front garden underneath. It was relatively quiet with visitors; only a few tables were occupied by ladies who had just finished preening from the downstairs salon.
Between the delectable sweet treats, tempting fritters, or steaming bowls of Mie Ayam, the front display housed a line of flavourful perennial local favorites that are no stranger to me, and there I stood, finding myself in a conundrum. The server was kind enough to help me make the choices, and before I knew it, I was bringing a tray full of colorful goodies to my table. The hot tea came not long after, brought in a transparent glass teapot hovered over a tiny lighted candle along with a pink hourglass. The sand grains will run out precisely for two minutes– the amount of time it supposedly takes for the heat to dissipate and not burn your tongue.
Although the space felt modern, the sweets at Jajan Si Manis were not. Their products didn’t try to be modern, fusion, nor complicated. For instance, the glutinous rice ‘Lupis’ was dense yet soft, with a subtle whiff of pandan, served fairly straightforward with shredded coconut and a mini saucier of palm sugar. In contrast, the Rum Balls were strikingly fudgy and rich, with a strong and sweet rum scent; you’d be surprised as to how these simple rounds of chocolate pack such a rich, decadent flavor. I also ordered a ‘Sosis Solo’ as a savory alteration from the sweets, and for those who prefer the combination between the two, the ‘Pisang Goreng with Sambal Roa,’ a fried banana eaten with spicy sauce (traditionally from Manado) was also available to grab.
That afternoon was certainly an unusual yet strangely bewitching scene for me. Where else can you indulge nostalgic Indonesian snacks in a modern french-bistro facade, all while a Bossa Nova song faintly drifts in the background?
Jajan Si Manis
Jl. Wijaya X No.7, Melawai, Kec. Kby. Baru, South Jakarta, Jakarta
Note: Located on the second floor, above Itjeher Beauty & Hair Salon