Chef Enggie’s Chocolate Affair

cover story - Enggie of MO-14

Pastry, sweets and chocolate used to be things that Enggie Angga Kusumah, Pastry Chef of Mandarin Oriental, Jakarta, avoided. However, there are two things in life you can’t avoided which are mother nature and love.

Thanks to his mother, Enggie always liked to cook. However, being a pastry chef was not part of his plan. He used to have an idea that pastry is a world that limited to women. Not to mention, he thought being in the pastry basically being basic and he didn’t want to be basic.

Making his way into the industry, he joined mixology. Fortunately, mother nature and love lead Enggie to pastry. Not only his point of view changed, Enggie found himself in the process.

cover story - Enggie of MO-8

In pastry, Enggie was able to put all the things he likes such as art, drawing and design into his dishes. Enggie specialize in chocolate because he thinks the ingredient offers an invitation to enjoy the world slowly and an imperative to play with your food.

Perhaps because it lay a foundation; chocolate takes dishes into a realm where chefs can invent new combinations and those who taste it can ponder how taste, texture and temperature conspire to become a memorable pleasure.

cover story - Enggie of MO-4

“Chocolate can be simple or complex depending how you see it. It can be paired with lot of ingredients. It is connected to everywhere. It can be mixed with fruits or spices. You have all the possibilities depending on you capability. I personally like chocolate for its true taste.”

Thus, Enggie believed that chocolate can be perfect dish for all if the elements were in balance. Too much of one thing or too little of another can turn what should be pleasurable into a mess.

For this occasion, Enggie prepared a series of chocolate bar with fruits and spices. He outsourced the chocolate from Tabanan, Bali and Aceh specifically for its bitterness and versatility. The first one is a bar of chocolate which paired with chili and lime. The sourness in the lime help to soften the bitterness. Lime also help to give more boost to the strong aroma of Aceh chocolate. The flavor then was escalated with the help of chili.

cover story - Enggie of MO-2

Next, Enggie used green tea as the main star. He paired the green tea with white chocolate, vanilla, and sugar. The taste is sweet with slight of bitter taste from the green tea. To add more drama, Enggie put crushed biscuit inside.

The pistachio cranberry is a mixed of sweet, sour and delicate texture. Another one is raspberry green peppercone which will be perfect for chocoholic. 65% Tabanan chocolate paired with raspberry to give a slight taste of bitternes; peppercone added to add flavor and fragrance.

The last one is the classic milk hazelnut which suit for all sweet tooth. He used slow roasted hazelnut to give extra texture and added salt to elevate the mildness of the milk chocolate.

Jalan M.H. Thamrin, Jakarta
T: +62 21  2993 8825
Twitter: @MO_JAKARTA
Facebook: MandarinOrientalJakarta

Written by Tatu Hutami Photographs by Yosua Yanuard November 19, 2017.